Bat Care, Repair and General Tips
- Thread starter Almost_Austwick
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Almost_Austwick
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Its based on many things including length of time with the company or reputation at making bats that perform well but like most things in life some people are just naturally more adept at making bats than others.
A good bat maker is able to get most clefts to balance nicely as well as having an eye for detail. Its an art and some are good whilst others are great.
Almost_Austwick
International Captain
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I was just in the right place at the right time and got lucky. I can't really offer any more advice than that as I never set out to make bats and just fell into it (as I seem to do with most of my work).
The big problem these days is the fact that a huge number of bats are made in India due to it being cheaper, so there isn't the call for bat makers that there once was.
The best (as well as certain other types) bats are still crafted in this country but in general its not as prevalent as in previous decades.
Maybe it will change again in the future but if its something that you're interested in learning I'd say look for a small local bat maker and ask for some work experience - once they get to know you they may offer some Saturday work and the chance to start learning bat repairs.
The big problem these days is the fact that a huge number of bats are made in India due to it being cheaper, so there isn't the call for bat makers that there once was.
The best (as well as certain other types) bats are still crafted in this country but in general its not as prevalent as in previous decades.
Maybe it will change again in the future but if its something that you're interested in learning I'd say look for a small local bat maker and ask for some work experience - once they get to know you they may offer some Saturday work and the chance to start learning bat repairs.
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Almost_Austwick
International Captain
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- Jul 28, 2005
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As I have been promising the first photo tutorial!
Although this will be teaching many of you to suck eggs, one or two of you have asked for tips on using a gripping cone so below is quick guide with pictures.
Firstly -a gripping cone!
Before you start it's a good idea to check the binding on the handle, make sure there are no loose ends and it's not starting to unravel. If it is you can stick down the loose bits with a little bit of wood glue. If the string has come away completely you need to get it rewound by a pro.
You need to place the grip as far onto the cone as you're able - don't force it on but you should get about 2/3 of the grip on, like so:
Once you've done that roll the grip upwards (as per arrow on photo) until the grip 'pops' off:
Turn the half rolled grip around and place the unrolled bit back onto the cone, until the rolled up section is back on and then roll the grip down:
Continue to roll the grip down the cone, towards the metal ring (if your cone has one). It should look something like this:
Once you are near or on the metal ring, place that end over the handle of the bat (you need to grip the bat with your feet to free up your hands) and push the grip over the bottom of the cone and onto the handle. It may take some force, depending on the age of the grip and how thick it is:
Proceed to roll the grip all the way down the handle - try to get the bottom of the grip to fall where the handle meets the bat (this will take practice). If you don't get it first time, you'll need to play with the grip to get it to fit. Use your thumbs and palms to work the grip.
Lastly, roll the grip all the way up the handle. You can 'pat' down a small amount of excess using the flat of you palm. If its a lot then you can again work the grip using your hands. If the grip comes up short, roll it down the handle and then back up to stretch it.
To finish off you can place some electrical tape on the base of the grip (wrap it twice round, keeping the second wrap over the first) but it's not critical.
I hope that explains the basics, after that its down to practice and blisters on your palms! Apologies for the pictures being slightly blurry but I had to take them on a camera phone.
Although this will be teaching many of you to suck eggs, one or two of you have asked for tips on using a gripping cone so below is quick guide with pictures.
Firstly -a gripping cone!
Before you start it's a good idea to check the binding on the handle, make sure there are no loose ends and it's not starting to unravel. If it is you can stick down the loose bits with a little bit of wood glue. If the string has come away completely you need to get it rewound by a pro.
You need to place the grip as far onto the cone as you're able - don't force it on but you should get about 2/3 of the grip on, like so:
Once you've done that roll the grip upwards (as per arrow on photo) until the grip 'pops' off:
Turn the half rolled grip around and place the unrolled bit back onto the cone, until the rolled up section is back on and then roll the grip down:
Continue to roll the grip down the cone, towards the metal ring (if your cone has one). It should look something like this:
Once you are near or on the metal ring, place that end over the handle of the bat (you need to grip the bat with your feet to free up your hands) and push the grip over the bottom of the cone and onto the handle. It may take some force, depending on the age of the grip and how thick it is:
Proceed to roll the grip all the way down the handle - try to get the bottom of the grip to fall where the handle meets the bat (this will take practice). If you don't get it first time, you'll need to play with the grip to get it to fit. Use your thumbs and palms to work the grip.
Lastly, roll the grip all the way up the handle. You can 'pat' down a small amount of excess using the flat of you palm. If its a lot then you can again work the grip using your hands. If the grip comes up short, roll it down the handle and then back up to stretch it.
To finish off you can place some electrical tape on the base of the grip (wrap it twice round, keeping the second wrap over the first) but it's not critical.
I hope that explains the basics, after that its down to practice and blisters on your palms! Apologies for the pictures being slightly blurry but I had to take them on a camera phone.
Last edited:
Simbazz
Chairman of Selectors
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- Dec 10, 2005
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great tutorial+1 ive got a question about willow, is there alot of difference between grade 2 willow and grade 1 willow ?
Not overly much differnce, but Grade one is more likely to last longer, withstand me wear and tear and basically, well usually, have a better middle, but to be honest, Grade Two isnt too bad, ive used a couple of bats with grade two willow and its not much differnce but there is an obvious differnce.
If you wanted advice id say get the Grade One willow, afterall you get what you pay for, so go for the more expensive which will usually last a long length of life, and be easier to maintain and just be less upkeep and worry.
how many grains does grade 2 willow normaly have. reason im asking about grade 1 & 2 willow is because i might be getting a new bat and cant decide what wood to get, the grade 2 bat is £90 and the grade 1 bat is £105
Simbazz
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The grains obviously differ, and that answer is beyond me so Master A_A would have to answer that, but for the extra 15 pounds the grade one, as like i said, you will have usually more reliability, but thats not to say a grade two cant over-do or outlive, or outscore a grade one, it all depends on the wood, Grade Ones have the better wood as you'd expect.
Almost_Austwick
International Captain
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Its not so much the number of grains that will differ but the overall quality of the wood. Grade 1 wood will generally be newer wood (as its most likely to be taken from the top of the tree) and have more spring. Because it hasn't had that much time to grow it's also expected to have a clean appearance with no blemishes (although some small ones are allowed).
As simbazz said for the sake of £15 go for the grade 1 bat but if you have the chance test out both. The number of grains is thought to have some impact on how the bat plays but it's not an exact science as other factors come into play. What I would recommend is that you look for a bat with at least 6/8 grains, as this is good middle point.
This is what you should look for in each grade of willow:
A Grade 1 Blade
A Grade 1 is the best looking blade money can buy, though it will not necessarily play the best. There may be some red wood evident on the edge of the bat. The grain on the face will be straight and there will be at least 4 grains visible. There may be the odd small knot in the edge or back but the playing area should be clean.
A Grade 2 Blade
A Grade 2 blade is also very good quality and normally a larger amount of red wood can be seen on the edge of a bat, this has no effect on the playing ability of the bat it is purely cosmetic. Again there will be at least 4 straight grains on the face of the bat with maybe some blemishes, pin knots or "speck" visible.
A Grade 3 Blade
This is the grade we produce and sell most of and it offers very good value for money. A Grade 3 Blade has up to half colour across the bat and is sometimes bleached, again this has no direct relation to the playing ability of the wood, it just has less visual attraction. There will be a minimum of 4 grains on the face of the bat which may not always be perfectly straight. Again some small knots or a little 'butterfly' stain may be present with perhaps more prominent "speck".
A Grade 4 Blade
A Grade 4 Blade is normally over half colour or contains butterfly stain (see our page on Imperfections in Willow). This wood is also normally bleached just to make it "look better", it will still play as well as the other grades. Any number of grains are possible and the willow containing 'butterfly' stain is very strong, there could also be more "speck".
The main thing to note that the grade is based almost entirely on looks rather than playability although there is some correlation between the two. As I have said elsewhere, its important that you test bats out before you buy them (if you have the chance that is).
As simbazz said for the sake of £15 go for the grade 1 bat but if you have the chance test out both. The number of grains is thought to have some impact on how the bat plays but it's not an exact science as other factors come into play. What I would recommend is that you look for a bat with at least 6/8 grains, as this is good middle point.
This is what you should look for in each grade of willow:
A Grade 1 Blade
A Grade 1 is the best looking blade money can buy, though it will not necessarily play the best. There may be some red wood evident on the edge of the bat. The grain on the face will be straight and there will be at least 4 grains visible. There may be the odd small knot in the edge or back but the playing area should be clean.
A Grade 2 Blade
A Grade 2 blade is also very good quality and normally a larger amount of red wood can be seen on the edge of a bat, this has no effect on the playing ability of the bat it is purely cosmetic. Again there will be at least 4 straight grains on the face of the bat with maybe some blemishes, pin knots or "speck" visible.
A Grade 3 Blade
This is the grade we produce and sell most of and it offers very good value for money. A Grade 3 Blade has up to half colour across the bat and is sometimes bleached, again this has no direct relation to the playing ability of the wood, it just has less visual attraction. There will be a minimum of 4 grains on the face of the bat which may not always be perfectly straight. Again some small knots or a little 'butterfly' stain may be present with perhaps more prominent "speck".
A Grade 4 Blade
A Grade 4 Blade is normally over half colour or contains butterfly stain (see our page on Imperfections in Willow). This wood is also normally bleached just to make it "look better", it will still play as well as the other grades. Any number of grains are possible and the willow containing 'butterfly' stain is very strong, there could also be more "speck".
The main thing to note that the grade is based almost entirely on looks rather than playability although there is some correlation between the two. As I have said elsewhere, its important that you test bats out before you buy them (if you have the chance that is).
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whereas mine is totally from experience 
Almost_Austwick
International Captain
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- Jul 28, 2005
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You're never far off with your advice so all I have to do is fill in some of the gaps.
To be honest it's nice to help out and also it means that people are getting good advice from one or two trusted sources and not snippets from here or there which could end up doing damage. You never stop being amazed at what some people think they should be doing with their bats. The best was the one that had, had the handle nailed on, I wish we had taken some photos.
To be honest it's nice to help out and also it means that people are getting good advice from one or two trusted sources and not snippets from here or there which could end up doing damage. You never stop being amazed at what some people think they should be doing with their bats. The best was the one that had, had the handle nailed on, I wish we had taken some photos.
King Pietersen
ICC Board Member
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- Nov 15, 2006
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- Manchester
Cheers for the tips you gave me about my Woodworm AA. I used it in a net session on Thursday and it worked a treat, an absoloute cracker of a middle. That extra knocking in i did before i used it definetly helped. I will use my Woodworm for a while now and just knock my Gray Nicolls bat in so the middle is better.
Great tutorial above aswell !!
Great tutorial above aswell !!
Almost_Austwick
International Captain
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- Jul 28, 2005
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Don't over knock-in the bat, give it an hour or so then play and see if its helping. If not go back and give it another hour etc.
