Bat Care, Repair and General Tips

Yeah. The cracks towards the middle of the bat are definatly surface cracks, but the ones in the toe are a bit bigger, so I think I'll glue to cracks nearer to toe and sand it all down. Thanks for the help. I'll provide a picture tomorrow to help clear what I mean up.
 
Hassan, if you need that bat to get you through a couple of games while you get a new one, get a roll of duck/gaffa/electrical tape (the cloth variety would be best, fibreglass would be stronger, but it's not worth it) and tightly bind that area at the top of the bat up. Just wrap loads of tape around it. When the crack eventually takes over, it won't save the bat, but it might delay the growth of the damage for just enough time.

It can be a good idea to do this to any cheap bat as soon as you buy it, even mid-range ones made of Kashmir, because they are harder wood and the fibres are more inclined to snap if you get a lot of force on a weaker area, such as the splice or toe.
 
For the sake of ease I'll assume that your buying the bat in person but some of the advice applies to buying on-line as well. However you do it, I would always say that at the very least go somewhere you can a try a few different bats just to give you an idea of what you'd like.

1. Set a budget but allow about 10% leeway. Common-sense really but trust me, it really helps to know how much you’d like to spend beforehand. Also, by allowing that 10% it’ll normally offer you that chance to upgrade to a better piece of willow or get some accessories (mallet or oil etc). As a rule of thumb, for a reasonable adult bat in the UK you’ll be looking at around the £100 mark.

2. Type of wood. Where possible always choose English willow and always go for the highest grade that you can afford – you’ll reap the rewards in performance.

However, Kashmir willow does have its place in modern day cricket. If you’re very much a rabbit when it comes to batting you may want to consider a Kashmir bat as it’ll tend to last a little bit longer (as well as be ing cheaper) and they do make really good ‘club’ bats to be chucked in a team kit bag.

If truth be told there isn’t much difference between low end English willow and top end Kashmir willow but if you do go down this route make sure you’re getting the best that either has to offer.

3. Size. This will obviously depend on how tall you are but when sizing junior bats we tend to work on the system that the top of the bat should come up to just below your hip. The table below details the different bat sizes as well as the approximate height ranges for each.

BAT-SIZE-GUIDE.gif


4. Weight. I can’t really advise much on this, as it’s down to personal choice. One thing to remember is that a whilst a heavy bat will pack a lot of wood and hit the ball further, a lighter bat will have a faster swing speed yet less power – go with what suits your batting style.

It’s also worth spending a moment or two discussing the pick up of the bat. The pick up relates to the balance of the bat – where is the weight situated? The higher the middle then the lighter the bat will feel as the bulk is closer to your hands. On the other hand bat with a low middle will feel heavier. A bat with a great pick up may allow you to go for a heavier\lighter bat than you’d normally use without noticing any difference.l

Despite the trend for buying on-line, I would really recommend going along to your local cricket supplier and picking up a few bats (especially if this is your first adult bat), don’t be afraid about trying the bat out - get into your stance and play a few shots. It’s the only way to find out what feels nice. For a short handle bat a good starting point would be around the 2lb 10oz mark.

Bear in mind that adding grips will change the weight of the bat (by about an oz per grip) as well as the pick up.

I’d say not to worry too much about the weight of junior bats as they all tend to be around about the same. However, if you want a lighter\heavier bat don’t be afraid to ask for one.

5. Grain\Blemishes. In theory the more grains the bat has (and the tighter they’re packed together) the better the performance but it will also mean that the bat is softer and hence will have a shorter life span. Most people will want something with between 6 and 12 grains. Try to ensure where possible the grains are straight and evenly spaced.

All companies grade their willow according to things such as imperfections, quality of cleft, density and where on the tree the wood has come from. In order to do so they will also produce a rating system and its worthwhile getting familiar with this so you know what you’re looking for.

Ideally you’ll want a clean looking blade (within the given limits of its particular grade). Blemishes are mostly cosmetic and nothing really to worry about but they are thought to be harder wood and it makes sense to avoid those bats which have blemishes on or around the sweet spot.

There is also a thought that the darker the wood on bat the harder it is. This is why you find many bats with a darker edge on one side of the bat. From experience there does seem to be an element of truth in it and I see no harm in having this on a bat.

A few other tips –

Some places will allow you to bounce an old ball on the blade to see how it plays, worth doing so ask.

Don’t be afraid to haggle over the price – at the very least you may walk away with a free cover or grip.

Lastly, it’s your bat so take your time when choosing, try a few out and compare things such as weight and pick up, you’ll be amazed at how they can differ.

I think the above covers the basics but if I’ve missed anything out please ask and I’ll be happy to help.
 
Nice guide there AA. I've been thinking about buying a new bat again. I was however thinking about going for a high range harrow sized bat instead of spending double the money on an SH bat. The bat i currently use is a Harrow Pioneer Woodworm Torch, and i love it. Perfect pick-up, great middle, but it is kashmir willow and has alot of cracks close to the edges, as mentioned earlier in the thread. However, the cracks have actually been getting progressively worse, and i now have a large clump of my edge coming away from the bat, not massively but it is petruding. So, anyway. I was looking online earlier, and was looking at the prices of bats, on Barrington Sports and CricketSupplies, the top range Junior Torches are very reasonably priced. A Harrow Premier Torch would offer me the light pick-up that i need, but the willow used is also of high quality. So i was just wondering, is there a difference in quality between a Harrow Premier Torch and an SH Premier Torch ? Or is it just increased weight and longer handle ?

Heres the link BTW
 
There shouldn't be much difference apart from the size of the blade, handle and weight.

The only thing you may find is that they can be a bit more relaxed about how they classify grade 1 (etc) wood for junior bats. However, it isn't a major thing and bat sounds as though it'll suit your needs. From the top of my head there is a decent cricket warehouse in Suffolk (which depending on far it is from you) might be worthwhile having a trip out to (if possible). I'll have a look for it and post the details just in case it's any good for you.
 
Yeh, that would be great. I dont know of any cricket warehouses in Suffolk. Just random sports shops that sell abit of cricket gear. One in Norwich that i go to, but is insanely expensive, is part of InterSport. If you could get me the details that would be great.
 
hello

How to take care of my bat ????? :happy

adamwilson :cool:
 
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Is there anything you want to know in particular?

There is an index in the first post that links to certain posts within this thread.

Also, here is a great link detailing how a bat is made - Making a Salix bat.
 
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Just a question. When knocking in, and I hold the bat at the bottom of the handle, it seems to vibrate. When I hold it at the top, it doesnt. And I only got the bat for Christmas. Is this bad? Cos it happened with my old bat aswell when I first knocked it in.
 
I don't think there will be any major problem but just in case check around the bottom of the handle and splice for small cracks. It sounds like its just normal action of the springs in the handle.
 
at the bottom of my new bat, ie got 2 cracks, one small hairline crack running about 3cms up, and one like a n shape, i dont think they will turn into anything major but how could i clean them up a bit ?
 
Sounds like they're surface cracks, I'd leave them for now to be honest. Look here for an example of surface cracks.

Failing that give them a quick rub down with some fine sand paper but I'd really advise to leave it until the end of the season and then sort out the whole bat in one go.
 
yeah thats what i ll probaly do, but the bats new, only used it in the nets 4 times and one match, i ll probaly use it all through the winter nets aswel then just get the cracks filled in before next sesaon
 
They won't need filling in, just a sand down and light oil.

Surface cracks are totally natural and normally indicate a decent bit of wood, obviously you need to check them from time to time but anything on the face can normally be safely ignored.
 
its at the toe of the bat, one near the middle and one near the edge at the toe
 

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